Visiting the 18th

It’s hard to pick just one thing that I loved most about my time in Paris. There are the little things that most Parisians probably take for granted—the long, meandering meals or the friendly greetings whenever you enter a shop; and there are the bigger things like the dozens of masterpiece-laden museums and historical landmarks. Now that I’m back in New York, I can’t help but wish for some of things in my day-to-day life. I’ve even taken to buying baguettes but, for whatever reason, they just aren’t the same as the ones I stuffed into my handbag while I was doing my tourist thing.

If there wasn’t one thing that I loved most, there was certainly an arrondissement that captured my heart. Montmartre, an arrondissement atop a hill by the same name, gave me a glimpse at the Paris I had expected to see on my visit. Quiet, sleepy streets with a boulangerie on one side of the street and a fromagerie on the other. You had the impression that everyone who lived there knew each other. There were no designer stores, no chain stores, just honest-to-goodness “mom and pop” shops, as we call them here.

Mom and I headed to Montmartre first thing in the morning on our last day in Paris. We—meaning I—had planned for us to climb the steps to the top but thought differently when we were standing at the bottom. Instead, we took the funicular which cost under 2 euros and saved us both a lot of panting.

Our first stop was Sacré-Cœur, the white-domed church that you can see from all over Paris. Maybe it’s because of the domes and the stonework, but the basilica felt exotic-looking to me in the midst of all the gothic architecture around Paris. It’s a gorgeous church though—and new in comparison to Notre Dame. It also didn’t feel touristy while we were there, much more like a parish church that is still used for weekly services. You weren’t allowed to take pictures inside and there were no souvenir shops by the entrance (that I saw anyway). I kind of liked that about it though. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to the top of the dome that day because it wasn’t open, but we did get some stunning views from the steps outside.

We took the morning to live as flâneurs, just strolling down the narrow, somewhat serpentine streets. I had a few things that I wanted to see—the two remaining moulins (windmills), Carre Roland Dorgeles (a little vineyard), and Place des Abbesses—but we were able to just take the sights in without watching the clock. I felt like I’d been transported to a different time. I felt somewhat out of place walking around with my iPhone and DSLR. The arrondissement is beautiful though with its ivy covered buildings and classic architecture. It’s no wonder so many of the great artists had studios or worked in and around the area. We had a delicious breakfast at a street café, hoping to prolong the experience just a little bit longer, and then I had a field day going from the boulangerie for a baguette to the fromagerie for cheese and then the charcuterie just out of curiosity (I don’t eat red meat or pork). And they were all on the same street, right next to each other! I have to say, I’m a fan of shopping for groceries that way instead of by going to a supermarket that sells everything. The quality just can’t be beat.

Of course, we couldn’t go to Montmartre without seeing the famed Moulin Rouge. You can still go and see shows there but, I have to say that the Moulin Rouge, in reality, doesn’t quite live up to its glitzy reputation. It was definitely a must-see, but I wasn’t blown away by it. Plus, the area surrounding it is much more touristy than the other areas in Montmartre that we visited. You know, plenty of those inexpensive souvenir shops, with mini-Eiffel Towers and things, spilling out onto the street.

I fell in love with Montmartre and, if I should ever be fortunate enough to live in Paris, I could see myself living quite comfortably up there. What I wouldn’t give to live in the studio that once belonged to Monet, Van Gogh, or Picasso! It’s the Paris I always envisioned.

Phantom of the Opera

If you are a Phantom of the Opera fan, then odds are you will start humming the Andrew Lloyd Webber songs as you approach Opera Garnier, like Mom. We had the treat of being able to go on a tour of this world famous opera house, and it was one of our favorite excursions during our time in Paris. If you do want to tour Opera Garnier on your next trip to Paris, then I suggest you buy the tickets ahead of schedule like we did. The English language tour was already sold out by lunchtime.

Unsurprisingly, there is a lot of history to Opera Garnier, and just as much legend. The chandelier that fell and inspired the novel that Webber based his musical on? It never actually fell, but a counterweight did, killing a female theatre-goer. The underground lake that the Phantom boats across a la the River Styx? Non-existent, although there is a small reservoir beneath the opera house. Sorry to burst your bubble.

I have to say that I felt more than a bit underdressed as I walked around. Apparently, going to the theatre was never about watching the performance. For the wealthy Parisians, it was about wearing their best jewels and finest gowns and being seen. And you did get a glimpse at the sort of elaborate “costumes” that the theatre-goers wore which rivaled those of the performers. The opera house’s opulence was probably only rivaled by that of Versailles. Everything is intricately carved and painted, and everything is so vibrant and colorful. I mean, even the seats in the auditorium are this plush, crimson velvet.

Opera Garnier is a temple for music and, even if you aren’t a fan of operas or the ballet, it’s worth seeing. And if you’re a Phantom of the Opera fan, then you will get a real kick out of walking up the grand staircase like you’re in the musical number “Masquerade.” You know what I’m talking about, don’t you?

First Impressions

It’s hard to believe that it’s been nearly 2 weeks since I bid France adieu. The trip seemed to take forever to get here and then was over in the blink of an eye. It’s taken time to come down from the vacation-high and get back into the swing of the 9-5 workday grind, probably because I’m so reluctant to leave France behind. When can I go back? Tomorrow? I’m just going to go repack my suitcase. I wish.

Luckily, I have close to 1500 photos from my trip and a head full of memories to last me a lifetime. There was so much to take in—the tastes, the smells, the sights, and the sounds. It was amazing to share those memories with my mother too. If you think about it, it hasn’t been just Mom and me since my sister was born twenty-one years ago. But it was really just the two of us from the moment we woke up until the moment we closed our eyes for 10 days. We got along well too except for a few bickering matches when we were lost, hungry, or exhausted.

Anyway, now that I am somewhat recovered I’ll be pulling together some travel related posts. And, you guessed it, this is the first.

Baguettes. Crepes. Cheese. Berets. Wine. The Eiffel Tower. Flâneurs. Poodles. They’re all clichés, but that’s how I envisioned Paris. Granted, there are a lot of baguettes, crepes, and wine, and you can’t miss the Eiffel Tower—La Dame de Fer has the habit of poking her head out when you least expect her—but that isn’t what Paris is about, not by a long shot.

The first thing I noticed about Paris is that everything is bigger—grander—than what you ever imagined. You know that the Eiffel Tower is tall, but you don’t feel its grandeur until you’re standing at the base or taking the two elevators to the top. What’s crazy is that the tower was supposed to be taken down after six months. Why would anyone have ever wanted to do that? The Arc de Triomphe is also this vast structure with a 287 step climb to the top, but it isn't until you're standing under the vault and looking up thinking “Wow!” that you can truly appreciate how massively impressive it is. And Notre Dame? Well, it’s impressive from far away, up close, from the inside, from the outside, from the top of a 387 step climb, and from its base. Every inch of it is intricately carved. It was one of those places where, even for someone who isn’t incredibly religious, I felt like I was in the presence of something much greater than myself. It was awe-inspiring.

There is something to say about a culture where stopping to smell the roses, so to speak, is a way of life. Living in New York, everyone always seems to be in a rush—to get to work, school, home, the store. Parisians walk at a leisurely pace (except during rush hour) and will just sit on the edge of the Seine or on the lawn of some park watching the world pass them by. Meals are events that last several hours and are meant to be enjoyed over pleasant conversation and a glass of wine. Life is to be savored, and I think that's something Americans need to learn.

Every inch of Paris is worthy of a photograph or a painting. Arguably, the only unsightly thing in Paris is Tour Montparnasse which I think smacks of the Tower of Mordor. The rest of Paris has this classic, elegant feel and striking facades. I loved that the city hasn’t been overrun by skyscrapers and glass facades. It’s quintessentially old world.

Have you ever been to Paris? What were your first impressions?

Au Revoir, France

How did my 10 days in France go by so quickly?

We’re on our way home today (sadly), and I’ll probably spend the next day or so recovering from jetlag and the getting my life back in order. Can I stress how much I don’t want to come down from this holiday high? I really don’t want to. At all.

But I guess it’s time to start thinking about my next trip, right?

Road to France Pt. VIII - Bon Voyage!

Au Revoir, USA! Bonjour, France!

The next few days will be a whirlwind as Mom and I get ready to fly off to Paris, but I’m bouncing off the walls over the prospect. Last minute shopping, packing, going to the airport!  It's so exciting! And isn't packing for a trip is always more fun than packing to come home? My room is currently a disaster area with luggage and clothing strewn everywhere, so it’ll be nice to get a bit more organized. I’m also looking forward to getting pampered tomorrow. Yay mani-pedis!

Anyway, I do have some posts set up in my queue, so Bringing Up Brittany won’t be completely neglected in my absence. When I get back, you should expect plenty of travel photos and posts! I also plan to give the blog a bit of a face-lift as a belated six month-iversary present.

In the meantime though, check out my Instagram for some lovely on-the-go shots of Paris and Nice!

"A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of Life."

-Thomas Jefferson

Road to France Pt. VII - Travel Tech

Time for another travel-related post! Don’t hate me.

I don’t know about you, but even on vacation I have a ton of tech with me. I don’t like being completely disconnected, so I tend to bring more equipment with me than I probably should. So here are some of my tech must-haves.

Plug Adapters –

Plugs in the US don’t match those in Europe, so good luck trying to charge any of your gadgets without at least one of these. I bought plug adapters to save myself that frustration, and I get the most bang for my buck by buying these off Amazon. I bought these Type E/F adapters for a steal at 3 for $7.25. These work in Germany, France, and some other European countries, so they’re perfect for my needs.  

Camera Equipment–

My trusty Nikon D3200 will be accompanying me on this trip, and she’ll be my most faithful companion, apart from my mother, obviously. But my DSLR needs a lot of TLC considering how much I’ll be using it. So I make sure to carry two ENEL14a rechargeable batteries and two 16GB SanDisk memory cards. This might seem like overkill, but I can’t think of what would be worse than missing a photo-op because of a dead battery or lack of memory. I’ll also be bringing my two camera lens because…why not?

Kindle Fire HDX –

Except for that time I went to London while writing my senior thesis, I am against bringing my laptop on trips. Laptops are heavy and take up a lot of room, and I don’t want to be tempted to spend my time in my hotel room. With my Kindle though, I still get some connectivity without the temptation of sitting in front of my laptop for hours and hours. Plus, it’s great for reading books and magazines on the plane. This is like the one time when I’d ever promote e-book use.

iPhone –

Because who goes anywhere without their phone nowadays? I always get the global plan added by phone provider so that I can use my iPhone overseas which saves me a few bucks. I tend to rely only on data when I’m abroad though for sending quick messages through WhatsApp, uploading photos to Instagram, updating Facebook and Twitter, and the occasional glance at Google Maps. I really only send text messages in emergencies, and the same goes for calls.

Road to France Pt. VI - Travel Toiletries

With only 6 days until France, the only I can think about is my trip. This time next week, Mom and I will already be wandering the streets of Paris in an attempt to see everything I planned for Day 1. We’ll be exhausted, for sure, but I have a feeling that the excitement factor will fuel us for a bit. When that fails we’ll have to resort to our caffeine sources of choice. There’s so much to see in Paris that we really are hitting the ground running.

I apologize for anyone who’s tired of hearing about my trip, but the posts this week are all travel-related as I count down the days, hours, minutes, and seconds until lift off. Today’s post is all about some toiletries that I consider must haves for any trip.

Batiste Dry Shampoo  –

I did a lot of research (aka asked beauty bloggers on Twitter) on dry shampoos before buying this striped beauty. Everyone I spoke to said that Batiste is the best dry shampoo on the market, and I definitely agree. There’s no residue, and it has a light, refreshing scent that gives hair a bit of a boost. You just spray, comb it in, ad bam!  

Purell Hand Sanitizer–

Whether you’re a germaphob or not, it’s always good to have some sanitizer in your bag. While being all touristy, I'll undoubtedly touch things that hundred (or even thousands) of other people have touched before me. Skeevy, right? That’s why I love Purell. It’s small enough to take on the plane, they have some great scents, and you can buy the bottles with these handy key-chains to make the sanitizer easy to carry.

Neutrogena Makeup Remover Wipes –

I swear by these make-up remover wipes, so I was obviously going to bring a pack with me on the trip. I have sensitive skin, so I always have to be careful about what I put on it. I’ve never had any complaints with Neutrogena, and I know that my face is clean and fresh.

Skintimate Shaving Cream –

Summer vacations (especially to the French Rivera) means showing some skin, so my shaving cream will be close at hand. The size of this can is perfect for traveling, and it has a great berry scent.

Coppertone Clearly Sheer Sunscreen –

I burn very easily, so I don’t go on vacation without sunscreen. Painful sunburn can ruin a trip—trust me. Since I know that I’ll be spending more time in the sun than I usually do while exploring Paris and Nice, I won’t be going out without spraying myself down. What I love about Clearly Sheer is that my skin doesn’t feel sticky or heavy after I’ve applied it, even with makeup on.  Clearly Sheer is lightweight and still protective.

Jergens Ultra Healing Moisturizer –

This is pretty self-explanatory, but I love this little bottle of Jergens.  It's the perfect travel size!  Planes always leave my skin feeling dry and chapped, so I like to have lotion handy.  And since my legs will probably be bare for most of the trip, I don't want to be walking around with ashy limbs.  Not cute.

Tide To Go Pen –

For those less than graceful moments when I inevitably drop something on my clothes. Just a little dab of this, and I can usually prevent stains. I also keep one of these in my purse for everyday use and in my desk at work. It's good to be Girl Scout sorts of prepared.

Road to France Pt. V - One Month to Go!

29 days!

I can’t believe that France is only a month away, but I’m sure that my friends and family are relieved. I’ve been able to talk about nothing but my vacation since I booked it in March, and my mania becomes even more intolerable the closer the departure date gets. A large chunk of my weekends are spent creating my insanely detailed itineraries, I’m spending a small fortune preparing for the trip, and focusing on anything else is a true test.

So with only a month left until take-off, what does a type-A traveler like myself do? Here’s a peek into the insanity that is my brain.

• Finalize the Itinerary – For me, finalizing the itinerary is a project and a half. Each of my days is broken down by the tourist attractions, food, and activities I have planned. Then I sit down with my Streetwise map and my laptop to get down to the nitty gritty. I try to plan out days based on the proximity of one site to the next, the hours they open and close, and also when my admission tickets and tours are scheduled. It’s like trying to solve a Rubix Cube at first, but it’s a great feeling when things begin to fall into place. 
• Gather all the tickets/documents – I’m fortunate enough to have Go-Today.com for my travel documents and flight details, but there are always advanced tickets and tours to think of too. I print everything out and put it together in a folder with my itinerary for easy access. This folder and my passport are my lifelines when I'm abroad.
• Create lists – I create lists for everything.  What I need to buy, what I need to pack in my suitcase, my carry-on, and even my handbag, what has to be packed shortly before I leave for the airport, etc. I told you I was type A! I’ll start getting my million and one lists together a few weeks before I go and make sure they’re as detailed as possible. 
• Last minute shopping – Toiletries, memory cards, travel adapters, and maybe a few new holiday outfits will all be purchased in the next few weeks. Mom and I have already been stockpiling toiletries and clothing, but this is do-or-die time. 
• Beautifying – With vacations come that desire to be pampered, at least for me. I already have my hair appointment scheduled but the Saturday before I leave, I’ll spend the morning getting a mani-pedi and getting waxed. I should get to feel like a pampered princess at least once a year!
• Packing – Packing is so much more fun when you're going, isn't it? Thanks to my intense habit of making lists, packing is usually a breeze!  This is obviously one of the last things I do, but I do try to get the bulk of my packing done the day before so I'm not stressing out hours before I have to go to the airport.

Road to France Pt. IV - Adventuring with Viator

73 days until France!

If you’ve been reading my blog, you probably already know how excited I am to be going to France this year with my mom. I’ve been planning the trip, more or less, since I got back from Italy last September, but now we’re coming down the home stretch! The flights have been booked and the hotel reservations have been made, so now it’s just a matter of planning my various excursions in Paris and Nice.

I rely heavily on Viator.com for my tour and daytrip needs. I’m not necessarily the type to like large tour groups in museums (I much rather aimlessly wander on my own time), but Viator provides some lovely advantages. For one thing, many of the “tours” for major tourist attractions include a skip-the-line option, meaning you get to skip those crazy waits for things like the Eiffel Tower. And, for people like me, you can usually find some independent tour options where your guides leave you to your own devices after a brief spiel.

Viator is also great for its more unique tours and daytrip options. Are you a foodie? Well, check out their food, wine, and nightlife options! Want to explore other areas of the country? There are plenty of daytrip options that provide transportation and friendly tour guides. Viator has something for everyone, trust me.

I’ve already begun booking some of my excursions, but here are my top 5 for my upcoming trip.

Versailles Independent Day Trip from Paris ($55-60) – This is one of the independent tours that I was talking about earlier. We’ll be picked up by coach from a central Parisian location and taken to and from Versailles, avoiding public transportation. We’ll then be allowed to roam Versailles for 4 uninterrupted hours with access to the gardens, Versailles Palace, and the Grand Royal Apartments.  Admission is included!

Ghosts, Mysteries and Legends Night Walking Tour of Paris ($25-30) – I did a similar tour to this one in Rome and had a fantastic time! Your guide leads a small group of people around the city after dark and tells all sorts of ghost stories and legends. It’s a fun way to learn the history of your destination, and who doesn’t like a good scare from time to time? If you like off-the-beaten-path adventures, definitely look into this option.

Provence Countryside Small Group Day Trip ($95-100) – Since I’m usually trying to cover as much ground as possible on my trips, day trips allow me to explore without fretting over transportation. The small group day trip is limited to 8 people, and you’re driven to various locations where you’re allowed to wander, eat, shop, and sight-see to your heart’s content. On this Provence excursion, we’ll drive along the French Riviera coastline to Cannes and see the old port, famous La Croisette Boulevard, the Cannes Film Festival Palace. We’ll move onto Grasse and have a guided tour of a perfumery before continuing on to Gourdon, Loup Gorges, and Saint Paul de Vence. The drive itself will include gorgeous views of the Alps and coastline. At $95-100 per person, this is a real steal! I’m more than a bit excited.

Monaco Small-Group Night Tour from Nice ($65-70) – I really can’t get enough of the small-group tours… This one will take us to Monaco in the evening where we’ll get to take a lap around Monaco’s Grand Prix racetrack, explore the glitzy principality, and even see if Lady Luck is on our side at a casino before heading back to Nice.

French Riviera Sightseeing Cruise from Nice ($20-25) – I love the water, and so does my mom, so a sight-seeing cruise along the coast seemed like an ideal way to spend an hour. I’m hoping that I’ll get some great photo-ops along the way!

So which of these trips appeals most to you?  Have any of you ever used Viator.com?

Road to France Pt. III - Advance Tickets

Are my Francophile tendencies showing yet?

Or am I driving you crazy with my French vacation that is now 100 days away? My apologies if I am!  I get overly excited, or so I'm told.

Now that Mom and I booked the flights and hotel reservations, I feel like I can finally sit down and start planning what we'll be doing in Paris and Nice. I love planning these vacations, but I’m also anal about it. My itineraries are planned almost to the hour and include detailed travel directions (street names, metro lines, travel time, etc.) between the sites I intend to visit. Crazy, I know.

My Fodor’s Guides are on a rotating schedule in my bag, and I’ve read them from cover-to-cover several times already. My list of the museums, tourist attractions, shops, and restaurants I want to visit has gotten very, very long. Mom is somewhat concerned about the survival of her feet!

Since I have some idea of what I want to see now, I've started buying advance tickets and booking tours. This was the most budget friendly approach I've figured out for seeing all the sites, and it saves you time while you’re there too. Instead of having to make a dent in my spending money to buy tickets while in Europe, I put aside money each month before the trip and book everything that I can online. Most museums have advance tickets available on their websites, and you can usually print them out. The best part? The queues for advance ticket holders are ordinarily short or non-existent. I also love using Viator.com to book day-trips and skip-the-line tours. These tours sometimes give you access to areas that are not open to the general public, a great little perk! With my spending money intact, I get to do a lot more shopping and eating than I might have otherwise.

I learned the hard way from my Italy trip last year that it’s important to consider proximity so you don’t end up going across town multiple times in one day, for the sake of your wallet, if not your sanity. So, as far as Paris goes, I’ll be trying to stick within a particular arrondisement each day (and sometimes going into the adjacent ones).

We did some booking last weekend, which was super exciting. So far we've booked the Eurostar to London, a Seine River dinner cruise, a French Riviera sightseeing cruise, and Versailles day-trip as well as advance tickets to Musée du Louvre and Musée de l'Orangerie. We'll be booking more next month too!

Road to France Pt. 2 - Easy Booking with Go-today.com

France, here we come!

After months of talking about it, Mom and I finally booked our trip to France. I’ve known that I was going, but having it booked makes the whole thing feel that much realer. Now I can start making my (in)famous itineraries (more on that later) and start booking excursions. My Fodor’s travel guides will no longer tease me from their perch on my bookshelf. 133 days until take off!

I’ve gone on several European vacations (London in 2012, Italy in 2014), and I’ve always booked them using Go-today.com.  I love the fact that you get the feel of a travel agent without the booking fee.  Whenever I have a question, I can just send a quick email to the person who helped me to book my trip or give them a call.  I’ve always gotten a reply within a few hours.

What I also like abut Go-today.com is that they do give you the option to select from their vacation packages or to create your own.  For both London and Italy, I used the pro-offered packages.  I selected the package based on my destination, picked the departure date, and chose the flights and hotels from a list compiled for me. This time around I decided to design my own trip though, and it was just as easy, to my surprise.  All I had to do was enter my departure city and destinations with desired dates, and Go-today.com did the rest.  It provided me with flight, rail, and hotel options as well as offering transportation to and from the airports, travelers insurance, and some sightseeing options.  All I have to do was make my selection and pay—easy peasy.  All my travel documents will be sent to my Go-today account as PDFs when they’re ready for easy access.

My experiences with Go-today.com have always been great.  I like the fact that I book everything in one go—flights, hotels, transfers, etc.—and that I don’t have to fret over misplacing documents. 

Mom and I will be in France for 10 days, and we’ll spend the first 6 in and around Paris before taking a train to Nice for the rest of our stay.  The whole trip cost between $2700-2800 per person, and that’s including round-trip airfare, hotel stays (with continental breakfasts), airport transfers, and rail tickets.  The one downside to Go-today.com is that you have to pay for the whole trip upfront, which can put a serious dent in your bank account, but it’s worth it!  Regardless, I highly recommend Go-today.com if you’re going to be making travel plans soon.  With over 40 countries to choose from, there are plenty of options for avid travelers!